Tutorial: Seamless Snap Pouch

This compact yet surprisingly spacious pouch is an easy-to-sew design that is both simple and practical, coming together in just a few hours. Its straightforward construction and secure snap closure make it perfect for anyone looking to create something useful in no time. Whether as an everyday accessory or a thoughtful handmade gift, the Seamless Snap Pouch effortlessly blends practicality with handmade charm.

Want to sew one together? Gather your materials, and let's start! Today we are going to prepare the body of the pouch.

MATERIALS

Body of the pouch

• 61/2" x 12" piece of cotton canvas or heavy/quilting cotton for outer body
• 61/2 x 12" piece of one-sided fusible interfacing foam
• 61/2" x 12" piece of cotton for lining
• 61/2" x 12" piece of lightweight fusible interfacing

Binding

• 32" x 21/4" piece of fabric cut on bias for binding for the entire pouch - ends cut at 45 degrees
• 41/2 x 21/4" piece of fabric cut on bias for binding for the side panels - ends cut at 90 degrees

Side panels of the pouch

• two 21/2" x 31/2" pieces of the same fabric as for the outer body
• two 21/2" x 31/2" pieces of the same fabric as for the lining of the pouch
• two 21/2" x 31/2" pieces of one-sided fusible interfacing foam

Extras

• two small magnetic snaps 3/8" in diameter
• four small pieces of batting slightly bigger than the magnetic snaps about 1" x 3/4"
• small piece of linen for the tag
• embroidery floss
• sewing supplies

Approximate finished size: 6" x 4" x 11/2"

Binding Diagram

THINGS TO REMEMBER

• I highly recommend using one-sided fusible foam to give the required shape to this pouch. (I am using Legacy Flex-Foam 1-sided fusible stabiliser).
• For a coherent look, choose a non-directional print for both the outer and inner layers.
• Linen, canvas or quilting cotton will give your pouch a sturdy, polished finish.
• Press the fabrics with a warm iron before cutting to keep them wrinkle free.
• Print the templates provided at the bottom of the page, and check the 1" test square to ensure accurate sizing.

Videos Tutorial:

Part 1 (Preparing the body of the pouch)

Part 2 (Installing the snaps)

Part 3 (Making sandwiched side panels)

Part 4 (Attaching side panels)

Part 5 (Attaching binding)

Part 6 (Finishing the binding and adding tiny stitches around the snaps)

Part 7 (Adding tiny stitches and shaping your pouch)

Preparing the body of the pouch (sandwiched panel)

1. Apply one-sided fusible foam to the wrong side (WS) of the fabric for the outer body following the manufacture's instructions. To achieve the best result, align the fabric and foam and start from the centre. Gradually glide the iron towards the edges.

TIP: Use a damp pressing cloth or baking paper to prevent scorching the fabric.

2. Apply lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side (WS) side of the lining fabric using the same method as in the previous step.

3. Place a small mark with a heat or water erasable pen on the end of the foam interfaced fabric piece for the outer body that you want to be the flap. This is very important as you might end up with a part of the print that is not suitable for the flap.

TIP: If you don't have an erasable fabric marker, place one basting basting stitch as a mark.

4. Place the outer layer with the top (flap) pointing up and the foam side facing up, place the inner layer on top with the right side (RS) facing up. Using long fine pins, secure both pieces together.

NOTE: If you have some direction on the print for the inner layer, make sure that it is aligned with the outer layer's top (flap) so when you open your pouch, the print inside points the right way.

TIP: When pinning the fabrics together, pin through the lining and the top layer of the foam only so that the sandwiched panel stays as flat as possible.

5. Flip the pinned panel over that the outer layer is facing you and the mark for the flap is still at the top. Centre the template on top and carefully pin. Using a water or heat removable pen, trace the template. Mark the points A, A1, B and B1 inside the marked template line.

TIP: I have been using FriXion Heat Erasable Pens for years. They are great!

6. Remove the template only. Leave the outer and inner layers pinned together! Set the stitch length to 2.0-1.8 on your machine and stitch on the marked line from the point A1 to point B1, then from the point B to point A leaving two gaps (between A and A1, and B and B1) unstitched. We need these two gaps for the installation of the snaps. Go slow around the curves to stay on the marked line. Backstitch the start and the end of the seams.

7. Remove pins. Trim the seam allowance as close to the seam as possible all around the sandwiched panel.

8. Place the sandwiched panel on the table with the outer layer facing you and the top (flap) pointing up. You might need to place a new mark for the flap if you cut it off as I did. 😊  Place the template on top of the panel, align all the edges. Pin if necessary. Mark the points C, C1, D, D1 and the centre bottom line only on the sides. Mark the position of the FEMALE OUTER SNAP at the bottom of the panel.

9. Turn the sandwiched panel over so that the lining is facing up and the flap is still at the top. Place the template on top and align all the edges. Pin if necessary. Mark the MALE INNER SNAPS on the lining.

Helpful videos:

Part 1

Helpful videos:

Steps 1 to 5

Steps 6 to 9

Installing the snaps

Note: Two FEMALE snaps are installed on the outer layer and two MALE snaps on the inner layer.

1. Prepare four small pieces of batting by making two small slits on each. Place a washer that comes with the magnetic snaps in the centre of the batting piece, mark the slits. Using sharp pointy scissors cut on the marked lines.

2. Place the sandwiched panel with the outer layer facing up and the marked dots for the snaps on top. Position a washer that comes with the magnetic snaps on the marked dot aligning the dot with the centre of the washer on the outer layer of the sandwiched panel and the slits for the prongs parallel to the sides of the panel. Mark two lines for the prongs. Using a pair of sharp pointy embroidery scissors, make two cuts by simply pushing the blade of the scissors through the outer fabric and foam only. Make the slits small. Make sure to leave the lining layer intact!

Make sure to leave the lining layer intact!

3. Push the prongs of the FEMALE SNAP through the slits. Take one small piece of the batting that you prepared and place it on top of the prongs on the back side, then place the washer on top. Using a metal ruler or a flat paper folding tool, push the prongs out. Repeat for the second FEMALE SNAP. You can trim excess batting around the washer.

4. For the MALE SNAPS, turn over the sandwiched panel that the lining is facing up and the marked dots for the snaps on the top. Position a washer that comes with the magnetic snaps on the marked dot aligning the dot with the centre of the washer and the slits for the prongs parallel to the sides of the panel. Mark two lines for the prongs. Using a pair of sharp pointy embroidery scissors, make two cuts by simply pushing the blade of the scissors through the inner layer and interfacing only. Make the slits small. Make sure to leave the outer layer intact! Repeat the process for the second MALE SNAP.

Make sure to leave the outer layer intact!

Helpful video:

Part 2

Helpful videos:

Magnetic snaps

Stitching gaps closed

Finishing the body of the pouch (sandwiched panel)

1. Pull the inner layer gently over the outer layer about 1/8" over the edge, pin. Set the stitch length to 2.0-1.8 on your machine and stitch the openings closed on the outer side on the marked line (stitch from point A to point A1). Trim the excess lining. Repeat for the opposite side (stitch from point B1 to point B).

TIP: Pin through foam only and place the pins parallel to the opening.

Making binding

1. Cut a piece of fabric 41/2" x 21/4" on bias. Fold it in half lengthwise and gently press with a warm iron. Cut in half so you get two pieces of bias binding that are 21/4" x 11/8" for the side panels. Set aside.

2. Cut a piece of fabric 32" x 21/4" on bias with both ends cut at 45 degrees. Fold it in half lengthwise and gently press with a warm iron. You should now have a piece of binding that is 32" x 11/8" for the body of the pouch.

3. Bring the short sided of the binding together and stitch with 1/4" seam allowance. Press the seam open. Be careful not to stretch the binding.

Helpful video:

Binding

Making sandwiched side panels

1. Apply one-sided fusible foam to the back side of the fabric for the outer side panel following the manufacture's instructions. Use a damp ironing cloth or baking paper to prevent scorching the fabric.

2. Place the outer layer with the foam facing up, place the inner layer on top with the RS facing up. Using long fine pins, secure both pieces together.

3. Flip the panel over that the outer layer is facing up. Centre the side panel template on top and carefully pin. Using a water or heat removable pen, trace the template and mark the centre bottom line inside the marked line.

4. Remove the template. Leave the pins holding the panel together in. Set the stitch length to 2.0-1.8 on your machine and stitch on the marked line. Overstitch the start and the end of the seam to secure it.

5. Remove pins. Trim the seam allowance as close to the seam as possible all around the sandwiched side panel.

6. Attach the binding to the top edge of the panel. Align the raw edges of the binding with the top edge of the panel. Pin. Stitch in place with a 1/4" seam allowance.

7. Fold the binding over the edge, secure with clips or pins. Hand sew with a Ladder stitch.

8. Trim the excess binding on both sides. Repeat for the second side panel.

Helpful video:

Part 3

Attaching side panels

The next steps require some patients  - they are a bit fiddly. But if you take your time and follow the instruction carefully, I know you will get it just right.

1. Place the sandwiched panel with the outer layer facing up and the FEMALE snaps at the bottom. Place the template on top (with the FLAP marking on top), align all edges and, using a water or heat erasable pen, mark the centre bottom line on both sides, and mark points C, D, C1 and D1.

MAKE SURE TO PLACE THE TEMPLATE THE RIGHT WAY!

2. Using small sharp scissors, make a 1/8" notch on the centre bottom line marking on the sandwiched panel. Then add three more 1/8" notches to the right of the centre bottom line marking and 3 notches to the left. Space them out about 1/4". Repeat for the opposite side.

BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT DEEP THAN 1/8"!

3. Repeat this process for the side panels. Make sure to space the notches 1/4" and keep them no deeper than 1/8".

4. Align the bottom centre line marking of the side panel with the bottom centre line marking of the sandwiched panel. Pin. Then bring the right top corner of the side panel to the marked point D1 of the sandwiched panel and pin. Then bring the left top corner of the side panel to the point C1 and pin.

5. Using a double thread and large needle, hand baste the side panel 3/8" from the edge. It should be more that the standard 1/4" seam allowance. Repeat for the second side panel.

TIP: Start basting at the centre bottom mark and move up to the right, then start again from the centre bottom line and go all the way to the left. This way gives you more precision.

6. Set your machine to the narrow zigzag stitch, and sew around basted seam with about 1/8" seam allowance. It must be smaller than the standard 1/4" seam allowance so it won't be visible when we attach the binding.

TIP: This step can be done by hand using a Blanket stitch for a more precise finish.

Look at that! Our pouch is really coming together! Just three more steps to go before you can enjoy your own Seamless Snap Pouch. 😊

Helpful video:

Part 4

Part 4 (Attaching side panels)

Attaching binding

This is it - this is pretty much the final and most challenging step of making this pouch, but I know you are absolutely capable of nailing it. Binding can seem intimidating at first, but here is the secret - it's simply about patience and technique. Go slow and trust the precess! You can do it!

Do not remove basting stitches around the side panels!

1. Start by working on the back of the pouch. Gently align the raw edge of the binding all the way around the pouch using clips or pins to secure it in place. Do not stretch the binding! Your binding should sit nicely and snug all around the pouch. If your binding is longer or shorter, you will need to adjust it at the seam.

TIP: As you go around attaching binding, make sure that the zigzag stitch holds both (the side panels and the pouch) layers together without any gaps. If you see any gaps, stitch them closed using a Blanket or Overcast stitch.

2. Using a large needle and a contrasting thread, baste the binding with the 3/8" seam allowance.

TIP: Use a dab of fabric glue to secure the binding around the curves.

3. For a more precise work, mark a seam allowance using a small ruler and a water/heat erasable pen. Mark the seam allowance a tiny touch wider than 1/4".

4. Machine stitch the binding with the slightly bigger than 1/4" seam allowance. If you marked the seam allowance slightly wider, then simply stitch on the marked line. Start at the flap and go all the way round. Pay close attention when you go around the bottom of the side panels. This is the most challenging part in the making of this pouch. Make one stitch at a time flattening the fabric both on top and underneath to avoid puckering on the outside of the pouch. Backstitch the end of the seam.

4. Remove all basting stitches.

TIP: I like to use a pair of small tweezers to help me with removing basting threads.

5. Fold the binding over the raw edge so it covers the seam on the back side. Finger press and use clips to secure it.

Part 5 (Attaching binding)

6. Using a single thread and a fine needle, attach binding with a Ladder stitch. I prefer to start on the flap and go around the pouch. Pay close attention when sewing around the curves - make sure to distribute the fabric around the curves without any folds.

You can add tiny stitches around the inner Male snaps as a reinforcement. Make sure to sew through the lining and the top layer of the foam only. No stitches should be visible on the front of the pouch.

1. Using a small round object or a ruler with a circle that is about 1/8" bigger than the diameter of the MALE snap, mark a circle around both MALE snaps of the flap of the pouch with a heat/water erasable pen.

2. Using two strands of embroidery floss in a matching or contrasting colour to the lining, stitch around on the marked line with a Running stitch. Note: no stitches should be visible on the front of the pouch. Keep the stitches tiny and even, and the tension a bit loose.

Part 6 (Finishing the binding and adding tiny stitches around the snaps)

Adding tiny stitches and shaping your pouch

This is the final stage of your pouch - the perfect moment to add a personal touch! Adding a small tag/label (either to the front, back or flap) can elevate your creation with that special, unique finish. It's these tiny details that make handmade pieces truly one of a kind.

Here are a few examples of tags/labels I made for the Seamless Snap Pouches:

1. Decide where you would like to place your label on the pouch. As you can see from the photos above, I placed them on the flaps and in the right bottom corner of the pouch. You can place your label horizontally on the flap or maybe even on the back side of the pouch. It's totally up to you.

2. Before we continue - let's prepare our pouch. A quick press with a warm iron will smooth out any wrinkles and re-fuse the foam interfacing where needed. Don't worry if the foam loosened in spots (this always happens with a bit of sewing manipulation).

TIP: If you don't have a tailor's ham, a small face washer will do the trick. Simply fold it tightly to a required shape and use to help you press the curved parts of the pouch and the body.

3. Take a small piece of linen preferably about 2" x 1.5".

4. Fold all the sides about 3/8" in and press well with a warm iron.

5. Stitch around with a Running stitch using one or two strands of embroidery floss. Using a heart/water erasable pen, draw your design. I wanted to mirror some flowers of the pouch fabric.

6. Use any threads and colours to make your own "mini signature" to give your pouch a special unique touch. Once ready, use a fine needle to attach the tag/label to your pouch.

7. Once that is done, give your pouch one more gentle press using a tailor's ham or a face washer. Fill your pouch with tissue paper or even leave the face washer inside, close the flap and place the pouch under a light weight for a few hours or overnight to give it a nice shape. Done!

Once I stitched the label, I realised that it was a bit too busy for this fabric. So I stitched a new one and now I have to attach it to the pouch. I will share my finished pouch tomorrow. 😊 

Click here to see a different way of making a tag/label.

Part 7 (Adding tiny stitches and shaping your pouch)

A FRIENDLY NOTE: If you are posting your progress on Instagram, please tag me using the "Tag People" function in your post. This way I will definitely be able to see your pouch.

You can use the #seamlesssnappouch , #stitchingnotes or #stitchingnotespattern hashtags on Instagram as well, but most likely I won't be able to see your posts due to the change of the use of hashtags.

If you have any questions during the sewing process, you can leave a comment here or on Instagram under the most recent post, or send me a direct message on Instagram. I am looking forward to seeing your creations! ❤️

TEMPLATE

Happy sewing! 😊 Larisa xo