Tutorial: Seamless Snap Pouch

This compact yet surprisingly spacious pouch is an easy-to-sew design that is both simple and practical, coming together in just a few hours. Its straightforward construction and secure snap closure make it perfect for anyone looking to create something useful in no time. Whether as an everyday accessory or a thoughtful handmade gift, the Seamless Snap Pouch effortlessly blends practicality with handmade charm.

Want to sew one together? Gather your materials, and let's start! Today we are going to prepare the body of the pouch.

MATERIALS

Body of the pouch

• 61/2" x 12" piece of cotton canvas or heavy/quilting cotton for outer body
• 61/2 x 12" piece of one-sided fusible interfacing foam
• 61/2" x 12" piece of cotton for lining
• 61/2" x 12" piece of lightweight fusible interfacing

Binding

• 32" x 21/4" piece of fabric cut on bias for binding for the entire pouch - ends cut at 45 degrees
• 41/2 x 21/4" piece of fabric cut on bias for binding for the side panels - ends cut at 90 degrees

Side panels of the pouch

• two 21/2" x 31/2" pieces of the same fabric as for the outer body
• two 21/2" x 31/2" pieces of the same fabric as for the lining of the pouch
• two 21/2" x 31/2" pieces of one-sided fusible interfacing foam

Extras

• two small magnetic snaps 3/8" in diameter
• four small pieces of batting slightly bigger than the magnetic snaps about 1" x 3/4"
• small piece of linen for the tag
• embroidery floss
• sewing supplies

Approximate finished size: 6" x 4" x 11/2"

Binding Diagram

THINGS TO REMEMBER

• I highly recommend using one-sided fusible foam to give the required shape to this pouch. (I am using Legacy Flex-Foam 1-sided fusible stabiliser).
• For a coherent look, choose a non-directional print for both the outer and inner layers.
• Linen, canvas or quilting cotton will give your pouch a sturdy, polished finish.
• Press the fabrics with a warm iron before cutting to keep them wrinkle free.
• Print the templates provided at the bottom of the page, and check the 1" test square to ensure accurate sizing.

Helpful Videos:

Part 1 (Preparing the body of the pouch)

Part 2 (Installing the snaps)

Part 3 (Making sandwiched side panels)

Preparing the body of the pouch (sandwiched panel)

1. Apply one-sided fusible foam to the wrong side (WS) of the fabric for the outer body following the manufacture's instructions. To achieve the best result, align the fabric and foam and start from the centre. Gradually glide the iron towards the edges.

TIP: Use a damp pressing cloth or baking paper to prevent scorching the fabric.

2. Apply lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side (WS) side of the lining fabric using the same method as in the previous step.

3. Place a small mark with a heat or water erasable pen on the end of the foam interfaced fabric piece for the outer body that you want to be the flap. This is very important as you might end up with a part of the print that is not suitable for the flap.

TIP: If you don't have an erasable fabric marker, place one basting basting stitch as a mark.

4. Place the outer layer with the top (flap) pointing up and the foam side facing up, place the inner layer on top with the right side (RS) facing up. Using long fine pins, secure both pieces together.

NOTE: If you have some direction on the print for the inner layer, make sure that it is aligned with the outer layer's top (flap) so when you open your pouch, the print inside points the right way.

TIP: When pinning the fabrics together, pin through the lining and the top layer of the foam only so that the sandwiched panel stays as flat as possible.

5. Flip the pinned panel over that the outer layer is facing you and the mark for the flap is still at the top. Centre the template on top and carefully pin. Using a water or heat removable pen, trace the template. Mark the points A, A1, B and B1 inside the marked template line.

TIP: I have been using FriXion Heat Erasable Pens for years. They are great!

6. Remove the template only. Leave the outer and inner layers pinned together! Set the stitch length to 2.0-1.8 on your machine and stitch on the marked line from the point A1 to point B1, then from the point B to point A leaving two gaps (between A and A1, and B and B1) unstitched. We need these two gaps for the installation of the snaps. Go slow around the curves to stay on the marked line. Backstitch the start and the end of the seams.

7. Remove pins. Trim the seam allowance as close to the seam as possible all around the sandwiched panel.

8. Place the sandwiched panel on the table with the outer layer facing you and the top (flap) pointing up. You might need to place a new mark for the flap if you cut it off as I did. 😊  Place the template on top of the panel, align all the edges. Pin if necessary. Mark the points C, C1, D, D1 and the centre bottom line only on the sides. Mark the position of the FEMALE OUTER SNAP at the bottom of the panel.

9. Turn the sandwiched panel over so that the lining is facing up and the flap is still at the top. Place the template on top and align all the edges. Pin if necessary. Mark the MALE INNER SNAPS on the lining.

Helpful videos YouTube:

Part 1

Helpful videos Instagram:

Steps 1 to 5

Steps 6 to 9

Installing the snaps

Note: Two FEMALE snaps are installed on the outer layer and two MALE snaps on the inner layer.

1. Prepare four small pieces of batting by making two small slits on each. Place a washer that comes with the magnetic snaps in the centre of the batting piece, mark the slits. Using sharp pointy scissors cut on the marked lines.

2. Place the sandwiched panel with the outer layer facing up and the marked dots for the snaps on top. Position a washer that comes with the magnetic snaps on the marked dot aligning the dot with the centre of the washer on the outer layer of the sandwiched panel and the slits for the prongs parallel to the sides of the panel. Mark two lines for the prongs. Using a pair of sharp pointy embroidery scissors, make two cuts by simply pushing the blade of the scissors through the outer fabric and foam only. Make the slits small. Make sure to leave the lining layer intact!

Make sure to leave the lining layer intact!

3. Push the prongs of the FEMALE SNAP through the slits. Take one small piece of the batting that you prepared and place it on top of the prongs on the back side, then place the washer on top. Using a metal ruler or a flat paper folding tool, push the prongs out. Repeat for the second FEMALE SNAP. You can trim excess batting around the washer.

4. For the MALE SNAPS, turn over the sandwiched panel that the lining is facing up and the marked dots for the snaps on the top. Position a washer that comes with the magnetic snaps on the marked dot aligning the dot with the centre of the washer and the slits for the prongs parallel to the sides of the panel. Mark two lines for the prongs. Using a pair of sharp pointy embroidery scissors, make two cuts by simply pushing the blade of the scissors through the inner layer and interfacing only. Make the slits small. Make sure to leave the outer layer intact! Repeat the process for the second MALE SNAP.

Make sure to leave the outer layer intact!

Helpful videos YouTube:

Part 2

Helpful videos Instagram:

Magnetic snaps

Stitching gaps closed

Finishing the body of the pouch (sandwiched panel)

1. Pull the inner layer gently over the outer layer about 1/8" over the edge, pin. Set the stitch length to 2.0-1.8 on your machine and stitch the openings closed on the outer side on the marked line (stitch from point A to point A1). Trim the excess lining. Repeat for the opposite side (stitch from point B1 to point B).

TIP: Pin through foam only and place the pins parallel to the opening.

Making binding

1. Cut a piece of fabric 41/2" x 21/4" on bias. Fold it in half lengthwise and gently press with a warm iron. Cut in half so you get two pieces of bias binding that are 21/4" x 11/8" for the side panels. Set aside.

2. Cut a piece of fabric 32" x 21/4" on bias with both ends cut at 45 degrees. Fold it in half lengthwise and gently press with a warm iron. You should now have a piece of binding that is 32" x 11/8" for the body of the pouch.

3. Bring the short sided of the binding together and stitch with 1/4" seam allowance. Press the seam open. Be careful not to stretch the binding.

Helpful videos Instagram:

Binding

Making sandwiched side panels

1. Apply one-sided fusible foam to the back side of the fabric for the outer side panel following the manufacture's instructions. Use a damp ironing cloth or baking paper to prevent scorching the fabric.

2. Place the outer layer with the foam facing up, place the inner layer on top with the RS facing up. Using long fine pins, secure both pieces together.

3. Flip the panel over that the outer layer is facing up. Centre the side panel template on top and carefully pin. Using a water or heat removable pen, trace the template and mark the centre bottom line inside the marked line.

4. Remove the template. Leave the pins holding the panel together in. Set the stitch length to 2.0-1.8 on your machine and stitch on the marked line. Overstitch the start and the end of the seam to secure it.

5. Remove pins. Trim the seam allowance as close to the seam as possible all around the sandwiched side panel.

6. Attach the binding to the top edge of the panel. Align the raw edges of the binding with the top edge of the panel. Pin. Stitch in place with a 1/4" seam allowance.

7. Fold the binding over the edge, secure with clips or pins. Hand sew with a Ladder stitch.

8. Trim the excess binding on both sides. Repeat for the second side panel.

Helpful videos YouTube:

Part 3

Come back soon! We will continue with finishing the pouch and adding a tag. 😊

If you would like to share your progress on Instagram for me to see and leave a comment on your progress, please tag me using the "Tag People" function. This way I will be definitely able to see your pouch.

You can use the #seamlesssnappouch , #stitchingnotes or #stitchingnotespattern hashtags on Instagram as well, but this way won't guarantee me being able to see your posts on Instagram due to the change of the use of hashtags.

If you have any questions during the sewing process, you can leave a comment here or on Instagram under the most recent post, or send me a direct message on Instagram. I am looking forward to seeing your creations! ❤️

TEMPLATE

Happy sewing! 😊 Larisa xo