Binding Made Easy

Binding can be quite confusing and intimidating, especially when working on smaller projects. You cut your binding, fold it as required, stitch it to your round project, and then reach the point where you need to join the ends of the binding. This part can be tricky and messy. Yes, you can join the ends and then use a decorative ribbon to cover the seam. But what if I told you that you could make a loop/joined binding that fits your round project precisely and makes this job a breeze? 

Here are some benefits of making a loop/joined binding:

• It fits perfectly without any adjustments.
• The joining seam is almost invisible.
• There is no need to fiddle with long ends.
• It saves inches of binding.
• There is no need to sew your round project to the exact size.

Well, I have a simple formula to share that works for me. I would love for you to give it a go and let me know if it works for you too. The process is quite easy, and I guarantee you won’t want to sew your binding any other way from now on.

Let’s get started.

Sew the top of the hotpot holder

Use any technique - patchwork, embroidery, or applique for the top. I like to stitch assorted scraps together or use one of the unfinished blocks I made earlier for my hotpot holders.

1. Make the top for your round hotpot holder to the desired size. I am using an old block (Woof the Dog Foundation Paper Piecing Pattern PDF) that you can find in my shop.

2. Once you are happy with the design, layer the backing fabric wrong side up, then the insulated wadding (such as Insul-Bright) foil side down, then the cotton batting, and finally your panel right side up. Quilt as desired. Place a round object (a bowl or a plate works well) on top of your quilted panel and trace around it with a pen or pencil.

3. Set your machine to the shortest stitch length and stitch along the marked line. Then trim as close to the seam as possible.

4. Using a ruler marked in centimetres, measure the diameter (d) of your hotpot holder. Mine is exactly 14cm.

Calculate the required binding length 

We need to calculate the circumference (C) of our hotpot holder. The formula is:

In my case, d = 14cm, so: C = 3.14 x 14 = 43.96cm

I am going to use binding that is 6.3cm (2½") wide. When folded in half, it is 3.1cm (1¼") wide.

We need to deduct the folded width of the binding from the total circumference:

43.96 - 3.1 = 40.86cm

So I need to cut my binding to a length of 40.86cm, which rounds up to 40.9cm.

Note: If you are using a binding of a different width, you will need to adjust your calculations accordingly.

Make the loop binding 

1. Start by cutting a long strip of bias binding that is 6.3cm (2½") wide. Do not fold it yet. Cut one end at a 45 degree angle.

2. Measure the required length along the strip from the top left edge towards the right, and mark the spot. In my case, this is 40.9cm.

3. At the marked spot, cut the binding at a 45 degree angle, parallel to the left edge.

4. Bring the ends of the binding together, offsetting them by about 1.2 cm (½" ). Pin and stitch with 0.6cm (¼") seam allowance. Trim the protruding ends.

5. Using a pressing tool or warm iron, press the seam open. Then fold the binding in half lengthwise and gently press it with your fingers or a warm iron, being careful not to stretch it.

6. Use pins to secure the binding around the edge of the hotpot holder. Do not stretch the binding, keep it snug. Watch video. Make sure the binding seam is positioned at the bottom or on the side. Stitch with a 0.6cm (¼") seam allowance, sewing slowly around the edge.

7. Fold the binding over the edge, pin or clip in place, and hand sew with a ladder stitch. I prefer my hotpot holders without hanging loops since I keep them in a drawer, but you can easily add a ribbon loop while attaching the binding.

Done! I hope this simple trick works for you, and that next time you need to attach bias binding to your round make, it will feel like a breeze. Happy sewing! Larisa xo